| salt lake city Current mood: nervous Well I'm back from my trip to the great salt flats of the old west. I was weary and missing home by Saturday, but scott fixed all that when he picked me up at BWI early Sunday morning. The mountains were beautiful, and especially touching as they were laid out behind the bleak stretches of neon and cinderblock that make up SLC's sprawl. So I'm home, but my thoughts are still turned to utah. Maybe because everyone keeps asking me about my trip… but maybe because I can't seem to describe the missing-ness there.
Good part #1: so through some magical intervention, I listened to my gut and I skipped the ramada inn that was recommended by the workshop organizers. Instead, for a mere $20 more per night, I languished in the lush and dimpled arms of the peery hotel. For a marble bathroom, well-informed concierge, free long-distance calls, fluffy white robes, canopy bed, and endless supplies of tazo tea and extra-smelly bath-and-body-works goo…I'd say that was money well spent. Even if it was company money.
Good part #2: sam weller's zion bookstore. I walked past this place on the first day, as it was on my path from the UTA light-rail station to my hotel (stay tuned for more about "TRAX"). I was drawn by the "zion," which from my rural ohio childhood conjures up back-country religion with names like "temple zions of the howling dog"… you know, the kind of church that is a pizza shop and video store Monday thru Friday, and church on the weekends. a drum set, moaning in the aisles. I thought I might at least find some weird religious tracts or an unsettling bumper sticker to bring home to scott. But instead, I walked through the shining doors of a really really great bookstore. Started just before the depression as a mormon bookstore, it is now nearly a block long – a hodge-podge building of winding paths, crooked doors and ups and downs – but faultlessly organized. With an even mix of brand-new and old books. Plus a great cafĂ© in front! Great find. I managed to get a first edition gene Stratton-porter that I'd never read – "the harvester"
Bad part, er, strange part… well, damn I guess they're all good parts! So good part #3: the sconecutter! Okay, close your eyes… picture a scone… dense, crumbly, maybe a few currants and a buttery/milky taste. Okay, now erase that picture! In utah, evidently, a scone is more like a rectangular unfrosted doughnut (or maybe an elephant ear?) about the size of your shoe. So, doughy, deep fried… and that's about it. The folks at stonecutter then cut them (hence the name) and stuff them with all sorts of things: turkey, hot dogs, burgers, apple pie filling, sloppy joes, taco filling… all sorts of stuff. I walked past this place for a couple of days, saving it for breakfast on Friday. I ordered a wheat scone, with 'honey butter.' I got a large brown shoe, filled with about an inch of foamy margarine and slathered in honey. I choked down a few bites, but the sweetness made my jaw lock up and I could go no further. Although, if I had known what these things were, I would have gone there for a lunch of the "sloppy scone." A doughnut filled with sloppy joes??? Mama, I'm comin' home. i'm sure that's like heaven around 3:00am after a long night at squatters. Oh yeah, and the best part is their slogan: let's go get sconed!
#4: "TRAX" : utah's answer to the public transportation needs of the winter Olympics (or so I was told on Wednesday, by a friendly little elf with crippling acne and flaming red hair). Fitting with the do-gooder, no-nonsense mormon approach, the fare system is run on the honor system. You buy a ticket good for 2 hours, and get on the train. Or, you just get on the train. There's an announcement informing you that you may be required to provide proof of fare purchase, but out of the 10 times I rode the train I was only asked once. Therefore, the trains are filled to capacity with hobos and shifty-eyed cowboy types with chewing-tobacco-teeth (read: none).
There were many other good things and weird things and bad things about the city, but I am tired of typing and I can't think of anything else. I'll post picture of the mormon temple soon.So in all, salt lake city was interesting. Stores closed early, and the people and cars deserted the streets by 6 or 7:00. It felt like a ghost-town, or a modern version of the streets of the old west gold towns in movies. Wide, wide streets with a few clusters of hard-skinned pioneers trudging along, minding their own business. Big mountains covered in snow, towering over people scrabbling out a life in the town. | Currently listening : The Covers Record By Cat Power Release date: 21 March, 2000 | 1:40 PM - 0 Comments - 0 Kudos - Add Comment - Edit - Remove |
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